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EA F1 Challenge Driving Guide (ドライビングTips紹介)

F1 Challenge Driving Guideに参考になることが幾つか載っていたので、抜粋して紹介します。これはEAのF1 Challenge向けなので、rFactorにはそのまま当てはまらない部分もあると思います。

Cockpit 視点か、 TV-Camera 視点かどちらが良いかですが、Cockpitの方は、ターンイン時により下部からの視点で、正確さに有利で、TV-Cameraはより上部からの視点でコーナーを見渡せるので、有利です。著者は、Cockpitを使ってますが、慣れれば、どちらでもそんなに差は無いでしょうとのことです。(ちなみに私はずっとTV-Cameraでしたが、最近Cockpitに変えました。)
Cockpit view or TV-Camera style onboard view..? I use the standard cockpit view myself and most of the fastest drivers seem to use the same (though there are some exceptions). For me it's mainly down to realism (I want to feel as though I'm in the car), but it's also down to turn-in accuracy - although you can see more of the track and upcoming turns with the TV-Cam view I actually find the standard cockpit view much more accurate when it comes to choosing a turn-in point. So I will always use the cockpit view but I don't see anything wrong with people using the TV-Cam view in leagues etc - some people think the TV-Cam view gives an advantage as it is higher up but I've tested both and I didn't notice much difference in the lap times (I certainly wasn't faster with the TV-Cam view).

エンジン音を下げて、タイヤの音をより聞こえるようにして、そこからタイヤロックや、スピン、タイヤの泣きの情報を得る。リアリズムは損なわれますが。(最近私がスキール音が出ないと騒いでいたのは、これを読んだからですwww)
Another tip when setting up the game is to lower the Engine volume. By default they are set quite high but I find that lowering the Engine volume to 40% and keeping the Sound Effects at around 95% allows me to hear what the tyres are doing much more easily - I know when I am locking up, spinning the wheels or screeching the tyres. It might not be as realistic to actually hear these sounds so well but at the same time you don't have the benefit of being in a real F1 car and feeling the behaviour of the car and the tyres on the circuit.

コントローラーのデッドゾーンはハンドルを除いては0%でよい。ハンドルは物によってはストレートでガタガタすることもあるので、1%ぐらいにした方が良い場合もある。
'Axis Deadzones' are areas in the axis travel which won't give any response - so if you have a 5% deadzone on the steering axis (X axis) you will have to turn the wheel for around 5% of it's full lock before the car starts to turn, and if you have a 10% deadzone on your brake axis you will have to press the brake pedal down for the first 10% of it's travel before the brake actually starts to do anything. This is very bad and as a result it is recommended that most people using a steering wheel should set all deadzones to 0% (I think they are set to 5% by default so they need to be adjusted to 0%).
I have all deadzones set to 0% with one exception - the steering axis on my Logitech Momo. The Momo rattles slightly in a straight line - normally this wouldn't be too bad but because I use 0% Speed Senstivity it means the car is very sensitive and can start going off line at high speed quite easily. As a result I use a very small 1% deadzone on the steering axis (X axis) so there is a tiny section of wheel travel which doesn't do anything.

セッティングに関しては、色々と試してみること。例えば、著者はモナコではウィングを50-50が最も良いと信じて疑わなかったが、他の人が32-40で良いタイムを出しているという例もあった。
One thing I will say about setting up the car is simply don't rule anything out. I have been guilty of this in the past; assuming that depending on the circuit there were some settings you simply shouldn't try as they would never work. For example don't assume Monaco is 50 front - 50 rear wings and nothing else, it's always worth trying something new. I remember a few months ago I was discussing setups with someone online and they told me they were using 32-40 wings (32 front and 40 rear) - I couldn't believe it and I actually told them they wouldn't be able to do decent lap times unless they were using a setup where the front wing was greater than (or at least equal to) the rear wing. That's what I believed at the time, however since then I have tried adjusting setups to use greater rear wings (while using other settings to balance the car) and it has worked with very good results. So now I know that it is possible to make a very useful setup with wing settings I used to think were "back to front".
Until you have actually tested something for a good few laps you can't be sure it is wrong to take your setup in that direction.

ドライビングスタイルは人それぞれなので、自分に合ったセットを見つけること。
Another thing I always found quite hard to understand was the theory of making a setup "to suit your driving style". I never thought it made much difference; surely everyone had pretty much the same driving style and if you had a good setup you'd be able to drive fast, but once again I have since realised this is untrue - making a setup for yourself is important. I think my driving style is pretty average - I like lots of turn-in and corner grip (who doesn't?) and I prefer a bit of oversteer much more than understeer. Because of this my setups are pretty average too and I think that's why a lot of other people have found them useful, but there are some drivers out there who have very different driving styles - some are capable of exploiting all the grip and benefits of a high downforce setup (pushing the limits more than the rest of us) while others have the ability to cope with much less grip and enjoy the nice straight line speed and acceleration of a low downforce setup while still being able to get the car through the corners quite well.

(著者は)通常はどのサーキットでもリアのアンチロールバーとスプリングをやわらかくして、加速時のトラクションを稼いでいる。フロントのアンチロールバーとスプリングは、サーキット毎で変える必要があり、結構セッティングは難しい。
I normally find a very soft rear anti-roll bar (between 30 and 50) can really help with rear wheel traction, and very soft rear springs (between 95 and 110) are useful for the same reason - I apply this to nearly all of my setups as it is very useful for driving without traction control.
The front anti-roll bar and front springs are much more difficult to set up as it really depends on the circuit and how fast you want the car to respond (and how stable you want the front of the car to be). As an average I would say my front springs are normally around 175 and the front anti-roll bar is usually around 200 but I can't recommend simply changing your setup to these values and forgetting about them - the circuit and your driving style will have a large effect on what settings you should actually use.

フロントのスプリングは硬い方が、ターンイン時や方向転換時に有利だが、その場合縁石に乗るとトラクションが得られずに難しい。
If you were to increase (stiffen) the front springs you would get much better turn-in and much faster change of direction but the car would be more difficult over the curbs and you might not have very good traction from the front end on the exit of turns.

タイヤのキャンバーを変更することも重要である。
Another setting worth remembering is tyre camber - F1 Challenge models this more accurately than F1 2002 and as a result you don't need anywhere near as much. Front camber should normally be more than the rear setting and you can decide on what adjustments to make to tyre camber by watching your tyre temperatures on the cockpit LCD display while driving. If the inside edges of the tyres are heating up much more than the middle or outside edges it probably means you have too much negative camber on the tyres. For F1 Challenge I've found that a front tyre camber of around -2.8 is useful for most circuits but the rear tyres are much more difficult to set up - If I was driving a circuit such as Spa with lots of fast turns I would probably have the rear camber at a similar setting (-2.8) but if I was driving a very low downforce circuit such as Monza (where traction out of slow corners is very important) I would probably want a much lower setting of around -1.8.

ブレーキのテクニックとしてポピュラーなのは、ブレーキング時に少しスロットルを開けることだ。ブレーキバイアスをよりリア側にすることにより、ターンインの特性が良くなるが、リアブレーキのロックが発生して、スピンする可能性がでてくる。ブレーキング時に少しスロットルを開けることにより、ブレーキバイアスをリア側にする事による、リアタイヤのロックを防ぐことができるようになる。
Another popular technique while braking is to use some throttle at the same time to steady the car (and to stop the rear of the car coming around) - this is mainly used by drivers who prefer the 'brake bias' to be towards the rear. As I mentioned earlier; when the brake bias is towards the rear there is a much greater chance of the rear brakes locking and the car having oversteer under braking - using a very small amount of throttle while braking can prevent this.
You might think "why would anyone want their brake bias towards the rear if it simply causes problems such as this?", well that's because a rear brake bias can really help corner turn-in as the car is automatically trying to oversteer, and in the early stages of this 'oversteer under braking' it will normally point the nose of the car in the direction you want to turn. So it can be a useful bonus if you can perfect the technique - you haven't even turned the wheel and the car is already starting to turn into the corner.

特に高速のシケインでは、スロットルをオフにするよりも、フルスロットルのままで、ブレーキを踏んでコーナリングスピードを調整する方が良い場合もある。例えばアルバートパークの'Waite'スパの 'Pouhon'等。ただし、このテクニックはF1CはF1 2002に比べてコーナーのグリップ力が減ってしまったので、難しくなった
One final braking technique which I used a lot in F1 2002 was a technique especially for fast turns and chicanes. If you are reaching a fast chicane in only 5th or 6th (due to the previous straight been quite short) and you know you could take the chicane in that same gear if you weren't using full throttle then rather than lifting the throttle at all you can simply tap the brakes very slightly before you turn-in. This will normally knock off just enough speed so that you can make it through the chicane with full throttle constantly applied - it will lower the revs a little bit and because you tapped the brakes before you entered the chicane you have the benefit of accelerating all the way through it, so when you exit the chicane your speed will be almost as fast as it was just before you tapped the brakes on entry. This braking technique is normally a lot more stable than lifting the throttle before a corner or chicane (especially at high speeds) so it is worth trying.Unfortunately that technique was a lot easier in F1 2002 than it is in F1 Challenge; In F1 2002 you had a huge amount of high speed grip (more than real life F1) so you could drive through a lot of the fast chicanes and corners in very high gears. The developers changed this for F1 Challenge (removing some of the high speed grip) so now this technique is much more difficult. I used to use this style of braking at 'Waite' in Albert Park, 'Pouhon' in Spa and the first fast chicane in Magny-Cours (among others) and although it can still be used at certain corners in F1 Challenge (if you have a very good setup) it is nowhere near as easy as it was.

逆にブレーキを全く使わずに、スロットルもオフにせずにシフトダウンによるエンジンブレーキだけでスピードを調整した方が良い場合もある(多少スロットルをオフにすることもあるかも)。例えば、マニクールのMaggots/Becketts/ChapelのS字
One final downshift technique I should mention can be used when you are downshifting for a fast corner that you don't really need to slow down for very much (e.g. if you were in 7th at full speed and you were coming up to a fast turn which you can normally take in 5th) - in this situation it might be better (quicker) if you don't actually brake at all. Just shift down from 7th to 6th before turn-in (without lifting off the throttle) and finally shift down to 5th as you enter the corner (maybe with a slight lift of the accelerator to prevent the negative effect on car balance that downshifts can have when lots of throttle is applied). The 'engine braking' will slow you down and that should be more than enough if you have a stable setup with a decent level of downforce - you also save the tenths you would normally lose by using the brake pedal in a similar situation.
A good example of this is the Maggots/Becketts/Chapel complex at Silverstone - I never actually touch the brake once when I negotiate that section of the lap and it saves me a huge amount of time compared to a lot of other drivers (I always have a very good first sector). I approach the complex in 7th gear, drive through Maggots and the entry to Becketts (still in 7th) without lifting the throttle at all, shift down to 6th on the exit of Becketts (with a slight lift to prevent imbalance) and then I shift down to 5th for Chapel and play with the accelerator pedal so I use enough revs to carry as much speed through the corner as possible without using too much and spinning at the apex or running wide on the exit. This technique might not be the best for a race distance (as in theory it should cause the engine to overheat earlier) but I've actually used it in some shorter races without any problems (and it is certainly a good technique for qualifying).

コーナーの出口では、ショートシフトした方が良いこともある。例えば出口で、2速に入れて、レッドに入るだいぶ手前で、速めに3速に入れる。この場合、加速には大きな影響は無いが、スピンに陥る可能性が低くなる。
Another useful technique on the exit of a corner is to short shift; in other words if you exit a tight turn in 2nd gear you can shift up to 3rd before the orange or red RPM lights actually appear. This doesn't seem to have a great effect on acceleration and it also means there is less chance of spinning because you never reach maximum revs on the exit of a turn - the car is much more likely to spin if you use maximum revs in an extreme situation (such as the corner exit with high g-force), so shifting up early will drop the revs back down and you should then be able to use a bit more throttle as you finish exiting the turn. I use this technique quite a lot towards the end of a race when the tyres have decided they'd rather not stick to the road anymore - it can be very helpful.

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ブレーキングでアクセル入れたり、フルスロットルのままブレーキングしたりってのも
ありですか・・・。
自分はまだハンコンじゃないんで、スライダーでアクセルとブレーキ操作してるんですよ。
スライダー上でアクセル、下でブレーキ、中央で何も踏まない状態。
なので同時操作ができないんですよ。

自分なりのタイムが出ない理由が、いわゆる左足ブレーキができないんで、アクセルを
完全に抜かないとブレーキングに移行できず、速い人と比較をするとブレーキング
ポイントが手前になってしまうため、直線直後の急カーブが多いコースだと差が大きいと
思い込んでました。

でも、他にも色んな技があったんですねぇ。勉強になります。
早くハンコンで走れる環境が欲しいなー・・orz。

ハンコン前提の話が結構多くてすみません。
私もこういうテクニックは知らなかったんですが、どれぐらい有効なものなんでしょうねぇ

ホント色んなテクニックがあるんですねぇ。
プロの世界でもテクニックの引き出しを多く持つ人が成功しやすいみたいですが、僕ら素人がそこまでいくのは中々難しいですねw;

例えばアロンソなんかはもともとアンダー気味のドライビングだったのが去年ブリジストンに変わって通用しなくなりシーズン中にドライビングスタイルを変えたみたいですが、凄いですよね。

色々と挑戦してみたい技がいくつかありますが、フルスロットルでシフトダウンは恐いなぁw
有効そうなのはショートシフトですね。
全開のイギリスGPでハミルトンもやってましたね。実際2速を引っ張った場合とショートシフトした場合を比較してもコーナーリングスピードはほとんど差が出ないですね。(立ち上がりに差が出る場合がありますが…)
場合によっちゃショートシフトの方が速かったり…w
ダメポで一番の使い手はいわずもがなあの人ですねw
僕は引っ張る方ですが最近ショートシフトにも挑戦中です。

いつも面白い情報ありがとうございます!
また楽しみにしてますw

あとちょっと前に話題になってたTVスタイル等アドオンの話ですが、僕はスポッター2.0とTVスタイル併用しても今までそれが原因で落ちたことはないですね~
でもPC環境は人それぞれだし僕の意見は参考程度で…

長文失礼しました。ではでは~

ziさん、こん○○わ!
ショートシフトの方がスピンはしにくそうですけど、何となく立ち上がり加速が悪そうな(気分の問題で、本当は変わらないんでしょうけど)感じもあって...でもあのお方が良く使われているので、きっと有効なんだろうなぁと思いつつ、なかなかまねする勇気もなくwww。多分特定のコーナーで特に有効なんでしょうね。

あと、ブレーキの最後のあたりでアクセルをちょっと空け気味にというのは、LSFのドライビングガイドにも
If you turn in at the required corner speed, you will be shedding time to the fast guys who will be carrying extra speed to the apex I guarantee it. This is one of the hardest skills to master in LFS and in my view what separates the ‘aliens’ (I hate that term) from the rest of us. To do this you will need to learn how to trail brake while keeping some throttle on.
こんな風に書かれていて、エイリアン(宇宙人)たちとの違いは、このあたりだけど、マスターするのはチョー難しいみたいなことも書かれていますね。

スポッター2.0もそろそろ挑戦してみようかな。

ではでは、また鯖で~

凄い、外人もエイリアンっていうんですね(I hate that termってww こういう言い方は嫌いだって意味かな?)

僕もたまにブレーキの終わりにアクセルを開けることがありますが、それはブレーキミスった時のリカバリー的なものですからね;(つまりブレーキ速すぎてコーナーリングスピード落とさないためにちょっと調整で踏むって感じの;;)
それでアンダーが出る事が多々ありますし、やっちゃいけないことなんですよね~
リアタイヤに加重移すためにそれやってたらかっこいいんだろうけど、そこまで感じれませんw;
今はどうしたら速く走れるかそればっかり考えてますがhiroさんの記事はかなりためになってますw
こういう技術に挑戦するのも面白いですね!(意味わかってればですがw)

ではでは~

やっぱり、万国共通で普通の人たちから見ると、速過ぎるお方たちは、「エイリアン」ていう感じなんでしょうねww
何でこれ書いた人は、この言い方が嫌いなのか、良くわかりませんけど...

荷重移動が重要ってリアルでもシムでも色んなところで書かれたりしてるんですけど、私も、いったいじゃあどんな風に運転したら、荷重移動を活かせた走りっていえるのかなって思ってるんですよねぇ。私の次の研究テーマ(おおげさ)はこの荷重移動です。


>今はどうしたら速く走れるかそればっかり考えてますがhiroさんの記事はかなりためになってますw
そういっていただけると、ありがたいです。私もそればっかり考えて、色々調べて他の方にも役に立ちそうなことを紹介してるんですけど、私自身は思ったほどは、なかなか速くなれませんね。
F1 Challenge Driving Guideの最後のほうに、「これ読んだからってすぐに速くなれるわけじゃない。じっくり練習しないと速くはなれないよ」って、まあ当たり前といえばそれまでですが、やみくもに練習するよりは色々知った上で練習したほうが上達も早いかなとは思います。

そうそう、TV Styleで落ちるってのは確かVista環境限定だったような・・・。
自分はXP環境ですが平気みたいですよ。

私もXPなので、TV Style大丈夫そうですね。情報ありがとうございます。
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hiro

Author:hiro
レースシムにはまっています。今はiRacingを主にやってます。

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